The Phantasy Guide to Korean Brands
Has Seoul overtaken Tokyo as the fashion capital of Asia? And how much juice do we have left in the cultural engine known as the Korean wave? Over the last two decades Korean fashion has quickly built itself up as a vibrant hub of creativity, blending experimental innovation and craftsmanship with a respect for tradition and heritage.
What makes it so distinctive is the way in which its designers have managed to merge modern sensibilities with uniquely Korean influences, with labels such as Amomento and Kimzisu offering sculptured minimalist silhouettes echoing the houses of Helmut Lang and Jim Sander, while brands such as 2000Archives and OPEN YY playing with nostalgia and youth in way that mirrors much of the energy of Japan’s golden era of the early 2000s.
Here at Phantasy, we’ve rounded up some of our favourite brands to emerge out of the Korean Peninsula; not merely as a shopping guide but a window into a burgeoning scene that seemingly still has plenty of steam left in the tank.
OJOS
Sitting at the intersection of streetwear and conceptual design, OJOS is a Seoul-based label that blends function with lofty daydreams. Known for its experimental silhouettes and technical detailing, OJOS has made a name for itself with its equally ambitious editorials that blend surrealism with a retro futuristic aesthetic.
YUNSÉ
Bridging London’s effortless cool vibes with Seoul’s shorp modernism, YUNSÉ explores the space between cynicism and romance. The label’s “Cynical Nouveau” aesthetic fuses skilled tailoring with delicate prints and fluid drapes to create silhouettes that beautiful blend these disparate worlds.
FLAREUP
Brimming with monochromatic minimalism and a street-inflected edge, FLAREUP is a Seoul-born label that channels the energy of the uprising city. Founded in 2015, the brand has consistently resisted passing trends in favour of black-and-white palettes, architectural cuts, and asymmetrical experimentation. One to keep your eye on.
OPEN YY
Bridging a laid back ambiance with subversive details, OPEN YY is a Seoul-based label founded by sisters Ji-Young, and Bo-Young in 2020. Since its inception the brand has reimagined the bombastic flavour of the ‘80s and 2000s through a modern lens, playing with asymmetrical cuts, exposed hems and bold textures.
MINJU KIM
Korea’s saviour of avant-garde couture, Seoul-born designer Minju Kim has managed to seamlessly blend whimsical femininity with a touch of drama. A graduate of the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp, she launched her eponymous label in 2015 after winning the H&M Design award.
NACHE
Founded in 2018 by Dajin Lee, NACHE redefines unisex design with a blend of the avant-garde. Their penchant for experimentation has seen the brand collaborate with Japanese avant-garde hair stylist Tomihiro Kono and photographer Sayaka Maruyama, as well as produce their own line of couture designs.
KIMZISU
Exploring the tension between individuality and conformity through sculpted silhouettes and avant-garde draping, each collection from Seoul-based designer Jason Kim looks to challenge perspectives on femininity during the digital age.
OSOI
It seems like you can’t walk five minutes without spotting an OSOI-esque bag these days with its signature geometric shapes dominating the streets like its been decreed by law. Founded by Heejin Kang, OSOI is quickly becoming a staple for K-pop devotees around the world.
AMOMENTO
Leaning more into traditional styles than perhaps others on this list, AMOMENTO aims to create timeless, classic designs through a restrained approach to fashion-making. Focusing on in-house textile development and intricate details, the brand elevates its seemingly simple pieces with a precision and care reminiscent of minimalist staples such as Helmut Lang and Jil Sander.
2000ARCHIVES
Not one for false advertising, 2000Archives does exactly what it says on the tin, channeling the energy of early 2000s street and youth culture into the burgeoning contemporary Korean fashion scene. Known for it’s playful prints and edgy cuts, each collection perfectly exudes the sense of fun that fashion is inherently about.
GENTLE MONSTER
There’s been nothing gentle about this brand’s rise to the top. Through aggressive marketing and more collaborations than we can keep count of, Gentle Monster has injected a variety of intellectual properties with an unmistakable infusion of cool. Eclectic and futuristic, the brand’s eyewear designs are as bold as its concept stores, which feel more like contemporary art installations than retail spaces. With pieces crafted from premium metals and acetate, and high-profile collaborations with Jennie and Maison Margiela, Gentle Monster has cemented itself as Korea’s benchmark for eyewear.
